Thursday, July 30, 2009

SyndicateHvac.com – Information about Air Handler Checks



















    An air handler is usually located in the garage, a closet, or in the attic (unless you
    have a package unit then the air handler is incorporated in the system). It can be a part
    of your furnace and houses the evaporator coils, the blower, and some controls. The air handler can be an upflow, downflow, or horizontal flow AHU (air handling unit). To determine
    which one you have follow the return duct. The return duct should originate where you put the
    filter and/or is the biggest register grill in the house. If the return ends in the bottom
    of the unit it is an upflow air handler. If the return duct ends in the top of the unit it
    is a downflow air handler. If the unit looks as if it is lying on it's side with the return
    duct coming in one side the supply ducts going out the other it is a horizontal flow air
    handler.




    Knowing this information can help you find the filter if you have never changed
    the filter in this unit. Some air handling units have the filter inside. If there is no filter
    in the return register or grill then the filter is either in the return duct somewhere or
    in the air handler itself. Filtering the air is not only important for the air quality in
    your home but it is essential for the proper operation of the unit itself. The air must be
    filtered before it reaches the coils or heat exchanger inside the air handler. If it is not
    then there will be a build up over time of dust and debris that get sucked into the return.
    This build up clogs off the evaporator coil and causes the heat exchanger to operate at
    higher than normal temperatures. The unit becomes less and less efficient and will eventually

    Spring maintenance checks to the air handler can help you avoid costly repairs when the heat of summer arrives. A word of caution is advised here before you open the panel. Air Handlers have high voltage running into them and there is a shock hazard. Before you remove the panel make sure the power is turned off to the unit. Only a professional should operate the unit with the panels off. Even with the thermostat in the off position the unit has high voltage running into it. Turn the circuit breaker off before opening any panel on your heating and air conditioning equipment. The air handler contains the evaporator, metering device (on most units), the blower, and some controls. The metering device and the controls should be checked by a professional. These components are highly technical and beyond the scope of this site to explain in detail. The evaporator and blower can be maintained by the homeowner as long as safety and common sense are applied.




    Checking the Evaporator



    The evaporator coil carries refrigerant inside it. This coil and refrigerant, through the heat exchange process, absorbs heat from the air passing through the coils. The heat causes the refrigerant inside the evaporator coils to boil and change state. The refrigerant, where it enters the coil, is mostly a liquid. By the time it reaches the end of the coils it should have absorbed enough heat to change it from a liquid to a vapor. On the outside of the air handler there are two copper lines. One large and insulated line, and one small and uninsulated line. The large line is the suction line. This line carries the vapor (refrigerant) back to the compressor in the condensing unit. The small line is called a liquid line. This line carries liquid (refrigerant) from the condensing coils to the evaporator. When the unit is running the liquid line should be hot and suction line should be cold. The temperatures of these lines will vary depending on how hot the house is inside and the ambient temperature outside the home. A big problem most people encounter with the evaporator coils is blocked coils. The coils are plugged with dust, dirt, and other debris, there is a duct collapsed somewhere, or there are too many supply vents closed off in the home. For the evaporator to work properly and efficiently the coils must be clean and have plenty of air flow. Thus, the necessity of a good filter to filter all the particles from the air before it reaches the coils. Coils operate below the dew point when the air conditioner is on. This will make the evaporator coil wet so when the dust makes contact with the coil it will often stick to the coil. Over time this will cause a build up and eventually the system will stop cooling. With improper air flow across the coils there is no heat exchange process. The coils will freeze and ice will form on them. Another cause of ice forming on the evaporator coil is a low refrigerant charge. If the coils are clean and they are icing up, you need to call a professional to charge the unit properly.



    Cleaning the Evaporator Coils




    Again, we recommend a professional do this work. A professional will have all the proper tools to complete the job quickly and efficiently. Make sure you follow the safety procedures noted above about cutting power to the unit before attempting to clean the coils. Once you have turned the power supply off from the air handler, open the panel where the suction and liquid lines run into the unit. Be very careful not to bend or crimp these lines or any lines in the air handlers. Another thing to avoid is the fins on the coils. Do not bend them. That would defeat the purpose of cleaning the coils because it will reduce the amount of air flowing across the coils. Check the drain line before you begin this procedure. See condensate drain section below for more information on this subject. Soak the coil with a soap and water solution. Professionals use an industrial strength coil cleaner which may be available at some hardware stores. Let this solution soak for a few minutes and then take a rag and wipe as much dust off the surface of the coils as possible. Repeat these steps until the coils look clean. Take a flash light and look between the fins. They should appear to be clean. If not, soak the coils again and use a brush with light bristles to brush the coils. Remove as much dust, dirt, and debris as possible. Remember there are two sides to the coil and make sure both sides are clean. The side that will most likely be dirty will be the side where the return air flow comes from. If your coils are clean and the rest of your components are operating normally you should have a nice cool summer inside your home no matter what the weather is outside.



    Checking the Blower Motor




    The blower is comprised of different components in most units. It has an electric motor, a squirrel cage blower wheel, and a cage typically referred to as a squirrel cage. Some units have belt driven motors and most have capacitors for the electric motor. The only required maintenace on the blower is oiling the motor if it has oil ports or checking the belt if you have a belt driven motor. Not all motors have oil ports. These motors use sealed bearings and never require oil. The motors that do have oil ports usually have little plastic dust caps that can be removed so that oil can be applied. They can be removed so that the bearings can be oiled. Not all motors have caps and not all caps are yellow.




    Checking the condensate lines are especially important if your air handler is located in the attic. Since the evaporator coil operates at a temperature less than dew point, it will condense the moisture from the air. This coil is designed to allow the moisture to drip into a pan. Most pans have a 3/4" PVC line attached to them that allows the moisture to drain to the outside of the house. The PVC line often becomes clogged with algae and muck and needs to be blown or flushed out from time to time. If your air handler is in an attic it should have a secondary pan to catch the water in case the primary pan or line gets clogged. We recommend that all secondary pans have float switches installed. This switch will cut the unit off if the secondary pan starts to over fill. This will save you from buying a ceiling. Float switches can be installed by your local HVAC service company.




    Check to make sure that the condensate line is not plugged by pooring water in the pan. If it drains fast then the line should be okay. If it drains slowly or not at all then the line is plugged or beginning to plug. Find the end of the line outside and take a hose and flush the line. You must be careful if you do this procedure. You can flood the pan and cause water damage. This will clean the line in most cases. If it doesn't you need to call a professional. They should have all the necessary tools to blow the line properly.




    All of these checks can be made by your local heating and air conditioning company. Just call and ask for a spring tune up or a maintenance agreement. A little preventive maintenance can save you a lot of money in the future. Take the time to have this maintenance done and save yourself from the expense and hardship that comes with breakdowns.




    In depth information:




    By the time it reaches the end of the coils it should have absorbed enough heat to change it from a liquid to a vapor. What are the reasons why the coil wouldn't absorb enough heat to change the state of the refrigerant?




    * Dirty Filters

    * Dirty Coils

    * Collapsed Duct

    * Too many supply vents closed off

    * A bad blower




    The bottom line is airflow. There must be the proper amount of airflow across the coils for your system to operate efficiently. Take this one step further. If you have one of the aforementioned problems listed above and the refrigerant remains a liquid, what happens? Refrigerant leaving the evaporator is on a non-stop trip to the compressor. It is important that the refrigerant has changed from a liquid to a vapor before it reaches the compressor. Liquid doesn't compress and can cause major problems if it reaches the compressor. It's called liquid slugging and can cause irreparable damage to the compressor.



Wednesday, July 29, 2009

HvacReport.com - Air Conditioning and Heating Maintenance
















     




    There are many important reasons why you need to have maintenance performed by a professional on your air conditioning
    and heating equipment at various times of the year. Some people ignore maintenance altogether and only see a technician
    when their equipment fails to perform. Some people religiously subscribe to a maintenance program as performed by their local
    heating and cooling contractor. Then there are those people in between those two groups.
    Ignoring heating maintenance can become dangerous in more than one way.


    First of all, if we ignored our air conditioning maintenance and the air conditioner broke down in the summer (even in
    the worse heat wave), we could tolerate it enough to live through it. On the other hand or at the opposite end of the
    spectrum, if we ignored the heating system and it broke down, a dangerous condition would exist and it could severly effect
    our health not to mention possibly damage the plumbing in our home. This is a good reason to have the heating system in
    our homes checked out, however, it is not the primary reason why we need to have it checked especially those of us who use
    oil, gas, propane, or another source of fossil fuel to heat our homes.



    Finally, the primary reason we need to have our heating maintenance done before the cold arrives is for safety reasons.
    You can't smell it or see it and according the American Medical Association it is the number one cause of accidental
    poisoning in America. It can kill you while you are sleeping.


    It is carbon monoxide and is often referred to as the silent killer.


    While the HVAC industry as a whole strives to make all heating systems absolutely safe for as many years as possibly,
    accidents do occur and mechanical equipment will eventually fail including heat exchangers and venting systems. Things can
    happen over the summer that can change something with your system. A flue can become blocked off by animals or the mortar
    can let go and cave in blocking off the flue. These are only a few of the many things that can happen to cause your heating
    system to become dangerous to you or your family.



    The best way to avoid any unsafe condition is to take action before the cold weather arrives. Have the maintenance check
    done and install carbon monoxide detectors in your home ASAP. By taking this action now, you can be assurred that your
    heating system will safely provide comfort for your family this winter.



    AC Cool tips


    Did you know that if your system is not equipped with a delay, turning the air conditioning off and on again too fast can cause your compressor to lock up?
    This can also be caused by adjusting the temperature setting up to a high setting and back to a low setting too quickly. This occurs a lot especially for people with children or those
    that live in areas with intermittent power failures.
    Make sure your child doesn't make the thermostat their new toy by instructing them not to play with it. If you turn the air conditioning off, wait at least five minutes
    before turning it back on again.


    Filter Maintenance and Indoor Air Quality


    Air flow is very important to the efficiency of your system. Whether it be your A.C. system or your Heating system, both systems need the proper amount of designed air flow throughout the system. Dirty filters restrict the airflow which results in higher energy and repair costs to you.


    A myth many people believe is that they can close off some of their supply registers and save money. This may be true if you only close off one or maybe two. The system installed in your home is designed for a certain amount of airflow. If this airflow is restricted in any way it causes the system to function improperly and could cause system failure. Open those supply vents, closing too many off is the same as a dirty or restricted filter.


    There are many different types of filters. The most common type are the fiberglass disposable filter that you buy at most hardware or retail stores. Other types of filters include the metal or plastic fiber type filters which are washable. These filters save you money because they are washable but they are not as efficient at filtering the air as the disposable kind. By far, the most efficient filters are the Electronic Air Cleaners.There are other high efficiency air cleaning medias that you can have
    installed by a contractor that will help keep your home's air as clean and dust free as most electronic air cleaners. The filtering medias are less expensive than the electronic air cleaners but have a higher maintenance cost associated with them because they also have disposable filter medias inside them.


    There many different things in the air that we are totally unaware of. Among them are:




    * Pollen

    * Lint

    * Mildew

    * Mold

    * Fungi

    * Virus's

    * Spores

    * Dirt

    * Pet Odors

    * Dust

    * Dander

    * Dust Mites

    * Smoke

    * Cooking Odors

    * Formaldehyde

    * Bathroom Odors

    * Chemical Smells

    * Tobacco Odors

    * Many Other Volitile Organic Compounds



    Removing these things is the job of your filter. The standard filters you can buy at the hardware store, the fiberglass stranded filters, are the cheapest and most ineffective filters for removing these particles and odors. The cheap filter will remove less than 10 percent of these particles and none of the odors from the air that you breathe. Many people are surprised to learn the contents of the air they are breathing from the list above. The question they most often ask is what can I do to filter
    these things from the air my family and I are breathing? The answer to that question is easy but based on what you want to spend and the level of cleanliness you want. As stated above the best is the Electronic Air Cleaner. An addition to the Electronic Air Cleaner, and one that will ensure the eradication of bacteria, mold, fungi, and mildew, is the ultra violet light installed in the return duct near the EAC (Electronic Air Cleaner). When these two devices, the electronic air cleaner and the ultraviolet air
    cleaner, are combined with the standard type of filter, you can be assured that you have the best indoor air quality available in your home. Additionally, if you had the electronic air cleaner and the ultraviolet air cleaner installed in your home, changing the regular filters will come on a less frequent basis. That is triple protection for your families health through increased indoor air quality.



    Electronic Air Cleaners


    Electronic Air Cleaners (EACs) can be expensive compared to the regular filtering medias but from personal experience they are well worth the cost. Customers with allergies and respiratory conditions have reported better breathing conditions when their units were working properly. These units are capable of filtering particles that are less than one micron in size. An EAC is a high tech way of improving the indoor air quality of your home.


    When the air passes through the first part of the unit the particles in the air are given an electrical charge using thin ionizing wires located in the cells. Downstream from the wires are collector plates with an opposite charge. The particles (now polarized) are attracted to the collector plates that have an opposite polarized charge. For this reason, electronic air cleaners need to have the cells removed and cleaned usually on a semi-annual basis. Mild soap and water should be used along with extreme
    care so the ionizing wires or collector plates are not damaged. If the plates or ionizing wires are damaged during cleaning, the cells should be replaced before restoring power to the unit or the power pack can be damaged. The power pack is an expensive and integral part of the electronic air cleaner. If you have a maintenance agreement the service should include cleaning and caring for this unit if you have one installed in your home. Since these units are expensive they should have professional attention paid
    to them from time to time. While the cells are not super-fragile, damage can occur if the proper precautions are not taken during the cleaning of these cells.


    Ultraviolet Air Cleaners


    Many of us know that Ultraviolet rays are harmful to our skin if we are over exposed to the suns rays. This is the reason most of us use sun block in the summer. Why are UV rays so harmful to us and most biological organisms? UV rays penetrate the cells and break down the molecular bonds in the cells. This can cause mutation of the cells and change their biological make-up. This process can be used to our advantage to improve the indoor air quality of our living spaces. UV lights can be installed in
    your duct work so that it may wash the air from harmful bio-organisms that live in the air and duct work of your home. When the air containing these microorganisms pass through the UV light in the duct work, the light penetrates the organism and breaks down it's molecular bonds. This causes cellular and genetic damage that renders these microscopic critters harmless. It also robs them of their ability to reproduce. Many of the items listed above can be eradicated from your system if you have one of these lights
    installed in your duct work.


    There is an additional benefit to having UV light protection installed in your ducts. The UV light will eliminate these restrictions allowing the motors to use less power to move the air. The secondary benefit to this is reduced maintenance costs because the motors are not working so hard all the time and therefore do not have to be replaced or repaired as often. A UV light installed in your duct work can benefit more than your health, it can benefit your checkbook also.



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    Tuesday, July 28, 2009

    LocalHvac.com - Fuel Oil Equipment Trouble Shooting

    LocalHvac.com - Fuel Oil Equipment Trouble Shooting







      Fuel oil smell is usually one of a few possibilities.


      First and most important is to physically have a look at your heating
      system and oil tanks and make sure there are no oil leaks! If your system
      has a front cover over the burner it should be opened to inspect. If you
      notice a large amount of oil any where I would suggest you shut the switch
      and call your local Fire Dept, then a qualified service company. If the
      system has any kind of leaks I would also call a service co.


      Hot air furnaces may have the burner mounted around mid point with the
      fan unit on the bottom. These systems will pick up oil smells
      and send them through the home rapidly.


      Systems should not leak any oil, if there are drips coming from the
      bottom of the burner motor it is most likely that the pump shaft seal is
      leaking and needs to be replaced. If the oil lines are wet at the fittings
      then they need to be sealed.



      If the smell is light and you have been noticing this smell for a few
      days, then it is most likely that your system is puffing back while running
      and is due for a cleaning.


      Fuel oil heating systems should be serviced annually. When a system
      is serviced it is normally disassembled, cleaned, nozzle and oil filter
      replaced. A cleaning is not just a light dusting , the sections inside must
      be brushed, and the soot vacuumed out of the combustion chamber. If this is
      not done the soot will build on the walls and stop the gasses from going up
      the chimney. The smoke and soot will soon escape any openings below the flue pipe
      and enter the home.













      My heating system won't start and there is a flashing
      red light on the burner motor.

      If this is the control that has the flashing light, it has a reset
      button.


      This control is a safety that determines if the flame is running properly
      in your chamber. It will trip to the off position when the fire in the
      chamber is smoky or no flame at all.



      Before pushing the button, make sure that you do
      not smell heavy raw fuel, or that there is not fuel leaking out from all
      around your heating system! Never push this button more than 2 times if the
      system doesn't fire up or run more than 10 minutes each time.


      When you push the button listen to the system, a few things happen when a
      system starts up. The burner motor starts spinning which drives the oil pump
      and sends oil to the nozzle. The transformer sends 15,000 volts to the
      electrodes to make spark and light the oil.


      Did it light? How can you tell? the flue pipe will get warm within about
      15 seconds, it may get up to 600 degrees in just a few minutes (be careful).


      Or the button will trip within 45 seconds and the red light will flash
      again.


      If absolutely nothing happened, no clicks, no motors running, your
      thermostat may be set too low or the wall emergency switch may be off.


      If it did try to fire but stopped after 45 seconds it is most likely
      that,




      1. There is no oil in the tank.

      2. The oil filter is clogged.

      3. The nozzle is clogged.

      4. The burner motor is not spinning.

      5. The oil pump is not pumping.


      6. The transformer is not sparking.

      7. The electrode gap is too wide.

      8. The photo eye inside the burner my be soot coated or bad.

      9. The oil tank has sludge and is blocking the oil flow.











      Global growth has been beneficial to the HVAC equipment industry. Even in the
      presence of regulatory measures such as the prohibition of CFCs in most
      countries and the rise of minimum efficiency requirement, findings still show
      that demand will increase to 5 percent every year onward as more and more
      facilities worldwide use HVAC systems. In the United States alone, it is
      expected that sales will reach up to $14.3 billion in 2009 due to nonresidential
      construction and residential remodeling.



      Thus, they become a well-liked choice for home heating. Chillers are machines
      that chill water, which then cools and dehumidifies air. They require low
      electrical power and are typically powered by gas turbines. Steam is often used
      in absorption chillers. Reciprocating, screw-driven, and centrifugal chillers
      are the basic varieties. Unitary air conditioners are sold either as a single
      package or a split system. Units with high efficiency perform similarly with
      conventional efficiency air models but use less electricity. Packaged terminal
      air conditioners, meanwhile, include outdoor louvers and heating availability,
      among others. They are usually mounted on the walls. Another well-liked
      equipment is fiber glass ducts. These ducts can absorb nice unlike sheet metal
      air ducts.


      These—as well as other HVAC equipment such as boilers or furnaces, exhaust
      fans, and coils—are available from different manufacturing companies found
      anywhere around the world. One of them is Lennox. Lennox air-conditioning
      systems are known for regulating and maintaining indoor air quality. They also
      distribute refrigeration systems globally. These are primarily used for the
      preservation of food in restaurants, supermarkets, and warehouses, among others.
      Another would be Ruud. For over 100 years, they have been servicing residential
      and commercial facilities with quality HVAC products.
      You can also purchase
      HVAC equipment online. Ebuild.com has one of the most extensive interactive catalogs
      of HVAC equipment for contractors, builders, and owners alike. If you’re looking
      for air conditioners, for instance, you can actually browse among 340 products
      and choose your most desired unit through manufacturer and brand preference,
      nominal tons, refrigerant type, SEER, and energy star compliance. This
      refined-search method will produce results that will likely suit your style and
      your needs.



      If you wish to purchase HVAC equipment from specific companies, you may refer
      to Apple Directory and to HVAC-Mall.com.
      Applegate.co.uk contains a comprehensive alphabetical listing
      of HVAC equipment and their corresponding manufacturer and seller in the United
      Kingdom and USA. These are major firms that have proven track record when it comes
      to good-quality HVAC equipment.
      HVAC-Mall.com , meanwhile, is helpful when you have the
      definite equipment in mind since the site showcases companies and their main
      products. For example, if you want to buy a gas-fired boiler, fluid-to-fluid
      exchanger, or water heater, you may visit
      Aerco.com.


      For cost-cutting measures, it is advisable that you procure an HVAC equipment
      without a middleman. Usually, most price quotations from contractors are already
      marked up to compensate with the other costs they incur in running the
      business. The problem lies when you aren’t sure what equipment to buy, much
      more its specifications. You may then resort to bidding. Get the most
      competitive estimates from different contractors, choose the most ideal, and
      have them buy and install the equipment.


      You can also contribute to environment preservation by selecting the most
      efficient HVAC equipment. They use lesser energy and decrease pollution due to
      onsite combustion. Furthermore, they last longer. There are limited
      air-conditioning systems available today that are CFC free. Thus, you prevent
      the continuous deterioration of our ozone layers. The most popular HVAC equipment used in homes and commercial and industrial
      buildings are heat pumps, chillers, and unitary and packaged terminal air
      conditioners. Heat pumps cause heat to move from a lower to a higher temperature
      reservoir through mechanical means. Vortex tubes, phase-change heat pumps,
      gas-compression heat pumps, and geothermal-exchange heat pumps are some of the
      typical kinds. Performance of heat pumps is best compared through their
      coefficient of performance (COP). This is the term used to explain the
      relationship between heat output and electrical power utilized. COP of most heat
      pumps are continuously rising, almost as high as 5.









      Sunday, July 26, 2009






      What is HVAC? You’ve probably heard of the term from different contractors,
      engineers, or perhaps colleagues and business partners; but you’re still
      wondering what the initialism means. Well, HVAC (“H-V-A-C” or “H-VAK”) stands
      for Heating, Ventilation, and Air-Conditioning—three closely related fundamental
      functions found in homes, offices, and other building structures.



      The HVAC system is also known as climate control. This is because these three
      functions are essential in maintaining comfort in every dwelling.


      Three Functions of
      HVAC

      Heating is significant in maintaining adequate room
      temperature especially during colder weather conditions. There are two
      classifications of heating: local and central. The latter is more commonly used
      because it is more economical. Furnace or boiler, heat pump, and radiator make
      up the heating system.



      Ventilation, on the other hand, is associated with air movement. There are
      many types of ventilation, but they all function similarly. Ventilation is
      necessary to allow carbon dioxide to go out and oxygen to get in, making sure
      that people are inhaling fresh air. Stagnant air causes the spreading of
      sickness, usually airborne, and allergies. But it is also essential to maintain
      an efficient ventilation system, especially in the attics. Insufficient
      ventilation usually promotes the growth of bacteria and fungi such as molds
      because of high humidity. It will also decrease the effectiveness of rafter and
      roof sheathing insulation because of water vapor condensation.


      The air-conditioning system controls the heat as well as ventilation. They
      often come in different sizes. Most air conditioners have large air ducts, so it
      is better to check out the building first to see if they can be installed. Or
      else, you can use the split system or remote coils. It is necessary, though,
      that air ducts are properly cleaned. Pathogens thrive in dirty air ducts.
      Return-air grills are also vulnerable to chemical, microbiological, and
      radiological elements. Thus, HVAC return-air grill height should be that it is
      not accessible but visible for any observation.


      The Future of HVAC
      How
      has technology changed in the HVAC field? Well, using PLCs (programmable logic
      controllers) in HVAC is the trend nowadays. But a great deal of development of
      the HVAC system lies on the ever-changing technology and continuous innovation.
      Companies are adopting wireless technology after they found out that networking
      HVAC controllers, which often use sensors, can eventually cut installation and
      labor costs. A lot of engineers are also focused on further improving this
      technology through the use of mesh wireless setup, which will work for both the
      wireless sensor and wireless controller networks.  The only downside of this
      could probably be the risk of being exposed to RF (radio frequency)
      radiation.


      The installation of an HVAC system is imperative if we want to achieve
      maximum comfort and be healthy in our homes, office spaces, or other building
      facilities. But you also need to consider the building size in installing an
      HVAC system. Optimum efficiency and comfort level are best achieved if the
      system is appropriate for the size. After all, any ineffective system usually
      means more incurred costs in the future. You should also see to it that HVAC is
      carefully integrated to the overall building design so other aspects needed for
      proper operations, such as cabling, are not sacrificed. The beginning of HVAC is
      not clear, though as early as second century, a lot of Roman cities were using a
      central heating system known as hypocaust. This is further popularized during
      the Industrial Revolution as big factories used it. Now most modern buildings
      that you see have integrated HVAC.The primary use of HVAC is to regulate room temperature, humidity, and air
      flow, ensuring that such elements remain within their acceptable ranges.
      Effective control of such factors minimizes health-related risks. A very humid
      atmosphere impairs the body’s ability to regulate body temperature as it
      prevents the evaporation of sweat. High humidity also decreases physical
      strength, which usually leads to fatigue. An unhealthy surrounding can also
      affect people’s thinking abilities. Hypothermia, heat stroke, and hyperpyrexia,
      among others, are some of the illnesses that may also occur.




       





      Saturday, July 25, 2009

      HvacDepartment.com - Thermostats and Programmable Thermostats Information

      Thermostats and Programmable Thermostats Information









      Your thermostat or programmable thermostat is an integral part of your comfort system. These thermostats, whichever type you have, require little maintenance. Sometimes the only thing people know about their AC and Heating systems is how to turn the thermostat on and off and change the temperature setting.


      A very common occurrence with service calls is the complaint that the thermostat isn't working properly. Sometimes this is true but most often it is something entirely different. Because some people believe the only problem with the system rests with the thermostat, they'll go down to the local hardware store and purchase a brand new thermostat. They get home and dust off the tool box, never read any directions, and proceed to change the thermostat. Some are successful and some are not. Those that are
      most likely read some directions or had someone read the directions for them. The ones that are not successful end up calling a professional in to finish the job.



      The bottom line advice to most people is to call a professional if something is wrong with your system. The problem may not be with the thermostat and you may exasperate the problem which will cost more in the long run. Additionally, If you have a multi-zone system, a high-efficiency heat pump or even just a heat pump, a regular split-system AC and a boiler for heat (and you have one thermostat), or an apollo based system (hot water heated in a water heater) with a split AC system, call a professional.
      These systems can be very complex and may require special sub-bases so the control circuit will work properly. Additionally, for heat pumps, there are different controls, and wires for these controls run into the thermostat, they are multi-colored wires. These controls can be very complex and each wire must go to the correct terminal on the thermostat or the unit will not run correctly.



      Additionally, be aware that thermostats are equipped with heating and cooling anticipators. Cooling anticipators are not adjustable where heat anticipators are adjustable in mechanical thermostats. Setting the heat anticipator is important for your heating system to function properly. It is set according to the amp draw on the control heating circuit. Make sure the heat anticipator is set properly so you will get the best out of your heating system.



      Installing a New Thermostat


      The first thing you should do before changing the thermostat is to select the proper thermostat for your system. If you are retired or if someone is at home most of the time during the day you most likely do not need a programmable thermostat. If this is the case the only benefit you will get from a programmable is at night. Once you have made the selection you can proceed to the next step.


      Thermostat Installation Advisory: If you decide to install your own thermostat you do so at your own risk. There are many incidences where the homeowner installed their own thermostat and were successful. There are also many incidences were the homeowner was unsuccessful. The ones that were unsuccessful wasted part of their day, ruined a thermostat or two, and caused the malfunction of an integral part of their system. That is not mentioning the fact that they ended up calling a professional HVAC Technician
      to fix the problems caused by improperly installing a thermostat. The ones that are unsuccessful end up paying three to four times what they would have paid had they called a professional in the first place. Factor this in to your decision and if there is any doubt call a professional to install the new thermostat.




      * Get the tools together that you will need to do the job right. You will need:



      o A small straight-slot (or flathead) screw driver

      o A small phillips screw driver

      o A pair of needle nose pliers

      o A utility knife or wire strippers (for small wire)

      o Plastic wall anchors (sometimes provided with the thermostat)

      o A drill with a bit to make the holes for the plastic wall anchors

      o A small level

      o Two pencils or pens

      o A small paper bag and some masking tape (tape the bag below the area where the thermostat is so that any trash or dust will fall into the bag and not onto the floor)

      o Some touch up paint

      o Clean hands (don't do a great job changing the thermostat and leave all those prints all over the wall)

      o Plenty of light




      * Turn the power off to the unit at the circuit breaker or the emergency cutoff switch. After doing that make sure the power is off by turning the thermostat to the on position and going to the unit to make sure it is not on. Not all circuit breakers are labeled correctly and not all emergency switches are hooked up. Just make double sure that you have killed power to the unit not only for your safety but also to keep from blowing the transformer.



      * Pull the cover off the front of the thermostat. If it is a mechanical thermostat there should be a little adjuster tab in the center of it. This is your heat anticipator. It should have numbers ranging from 1.5 to .1. Take note of this setting and remember to set the new thermostat to this same setting if you are replacing a mechanical thermostat with another mechanical thermostat. You probably want to do this now before you proceed further. If you are replacing a mechanical with a digital, the digital
      should set itself automatically. If not read the instructions on the new thermostat for instructions on how to set the anticipator. This is very important. An improperly set anticipator will cause your heater to run improperly. The thermostat is also equipped with a cooling anticipator. Cooling anticipators are most often on the sub-base and are non-adjustable.



      * Unscrew the thermostat from the sub-base. Take note of each wire. The following list should match the wires and terminals on your thermostat.



      o Red to the RH or RC terminal with a jumper wire between RH and RC. Or Red to the R terminal which is shared with both the heating and cooling. It has an internal jumper built in to the sub-base. The red wire is the hot wire. All other wires are common wires.

      o Green to the G terminal. This is for the fan.

      o Yellow to the Y terminal. This is for air conditioning.

      o White to the W terminal. This is for heating.

      These are the four wires that you need to control the heat, cooling and the fan. If the colors of the wires do not match the colors described here make sure you mark the wires with masking tape. If there are more wires that are not hooked up don't worry. This is common. Thermostat wire comes in many different varieties and the contractor who installed the system probably used 5 wire or 8 wire thermostat wire. They used what they needed and simply twisted or cut the other wires off.



      * Remove the wires from the terminals on the sub-base. The power should be off so you shouldn't have to worry about being shocked. Be careful not to let the wires fall back into the wall. Sometimes there is just enough wire to reach the terminals and that's it. Try pulling the wires a bit to see if there is more wire behind the wall. Most of the time there is some slack and you can pull the wire out more. Unscrew the sub-base from the wall while holding the wires. When you get the sub-base off wrap the
      wires around the pencil or pen. This will keep the wires from falling back into the wall.




      * Get the new sub-base and compare it to the old one. Hold it up to the wall in the position you want it. Is the old paint that was covered by the old sub-base going to be covered by the new sub-base? If any of the old paint is going to show you may want to make some touch ups now. After finishing with that, put the new sub-base back on the wall in the position you want it. Make sure it is as level as possible. You can use a level to do this. (This is very important especially for mechanical thermostats.
      It must be level or the mercury switch will not keep the proper temperature settings in the house. Make sure it is level.) Mark the new holes through the sub-base where the screws will go into the wall to fasten the sub-base.



      * It is important in this step to have the proper drill bit size for the size of wall anchors you have. Some wall anchor kits come with a bit in them. We recommend the wall anchor kits with the bits in them because it is the perfect size drill bit for the anchors. The bit should be slightly smaller than the anchor. If the bit is bigger the wall anchor will not hold and the possibility exists that the thermostat will fall off the wall. Drill the mounting holes you made for mounting the sub-base. Insert
      the wall anchors and push them hard with your thumb. Approximately 1/16th of an inch on the lip of the anchor will remain sticking out of the hole. If it is more than that use the butt-end of the screw driver and push it in until just the lip of the anchor remains visible.



      * Undo the wires from the pencil or pen and run them through the center of the sub-base. Insert the screws and screw them only snug tight. Get the level and make sure the sub-base is level. When you are sure that it is level, tighten the screws. Be careful not to allow the sub-base to move when you are tightening the screws.



      * Using the color code of the wires (or if they didn't match, the color markings you made with masking tape), attach each wire to their proper terminal. Some people like to loop the wire around the terminal screws. This is not necessary. What is necessary is that the wires are attached to the terminals and they are tight. Additionally, make sure that none of the bare wire is touching anything except the terminal. Once the wires are attached you are almost finished completing the task of installing the
      thermostat. The hard part is over!



      * Attach the thermostat to the sub-base. The screws for this are built in the the thermostat. Tighten these screws and check to make sure the heat anticipator is set to the same setting as the old anticipator setting.


      * Attach the front cover to the thermostat and restore power. Start and check the heating, air conditioning, and with the heating and air conditioning off, the fan only sequence. All systems should be working properly at this time (if you did the task properly) and you are the proud owner of a brand new, properly installed thermostat.



      Programmable Thermostats



      Programmable thermostats can save you more than ten percent on your homes utility bills. For that reason a programmable can pay for itself within a few years depending on the type and expense of the type you purchase. Among others, you can expect good quality from Honeywell products. If you are or someone else is at home most of the day and night, you most likely do not need a programmable. Programmables are designed for the family on a regular schedule. Those that wake at a certain time, leave the
      home at a certain time, return at a certain time, and go to bed at a certain time (on a regular basis), will benefit from a programmable thermostat. Read the following information and see if it applies to you for your benefit.
      How the programmable thermostat works


      You have four settings on the programmable thermostat.


      * Wake - this is the setting you want the temperature to be at when you wake. If you wake at 6 a.m. you probably want to set the wake time and temperature for 5:30 a.m. and whatever the desired temperature is for you.

      * Leave - this is the time the last person leaves the home for the day. If that person usually leaves at 8 a.m. then the thermostat can be set to change the temperature at 7:30 a.m.

      * Return - this is the time that the first person arrives home for the day. If that person arrives home at 4 p.m. then the time and temperature can be set at 3:30 p.m. That way when the person arrives home, the home is at the desired temperature.

      * Sleep - this is the time when everyone goes to bed for the night. If everyone is in bed by 10:00 p.m. then the thermostat can be set to change the temperature to a lower setting for the night.


      Most programmable thermostats have settings for both the weekdays and weekends so on Saturday and Sunday you can tailor the settings according to your comfort level and usual schedule for those days. All of them have options to over-ride the program for manual settings and an additional benefit to owning a programmable is that most are equipped with a compressor delay to protect your compressor from short cycling.







      The HVAC system uses three closely related functions, namely, heating,
      ventilation, and air-conditioning. These functions are uniquely set up so that
      they can regulate temperature and humidity in residential homes, public offices,
      and other building facilities with respect to the overall design of the
      structures.



      The heating system can either be central or local. The most commonly used
      setup is the central heating system where the heating is concentrated in one
      area—central—and is then circulated for various heating processes and
      applications.  Heat values of fuels are based on BTU to cubic foot measurement
      for HVAC.


      In the central heating system, there are three common components used. A
      furnace is an enclosure used for heating and can be found at the basement or at
      the attic. Different cultures have various interpretations of “furnace.” For the
      Americans, it is similar to kiln while for the British, it is equivalent to
      industrial furnaces. Whatever it may be, it still uses the same principle for
      heat distribution—that is, it transfers heat using an intermediary distribution
      system. A boiler, meanwhile, is a type of furnace—in fact, a closed vessel—that
      distributes heat through steam.



      Thermodynamic principles are the bases for a heat pump. This device causes
      the temperature to rise through heat transfer. A heat pump is very effective
      especially for very cold air since it has the ability to heat it at the shortest
      period. An efficient heat pump uses lesser energy and thus power.


      A radiator is a heating device that circulates steam or hot water through
      pipes found inside an upright metal structure. This term is also commonly
      applied to some types of heat exchangers. It is a common perception among people
      that heat is transferred from a heat exchanger through radiation when, in fact,
      it is not. It transfers heat by convection, which uses currents.


      Please note, though, that the central heating system is completely different
      from your hot water supply. For instance, the water used in the former is not
      the same as your tap water.

      Ways of Central
      Heating

      There are a number of methods for central heating. In
      electric heating, an electrical heater is used. It is a device that transforms
      electrical energy into heat. Every electric heater contains an electric
      resistor, which acts as its heating element. Right now, there are many
      variations of electrical heaters that deliver different amounts of heat, but all
      of them use the same principle: Joule heating. An electric current that converts
      electricity to heat is allowed to pass through the resistor. In hydronic
      heating, heat produced is commonly transferred to fins found along pipes in
      baseboard HVAC registers. You can also use coal, propane or natural gas,
      pressurized oil, or earth, which is used as a heat pump.


      Air-conditioning
      Over the years, air-conditioning has
      changed home lifestyle. A lot of London homes right now take advantage of
      wall-mounted air-conditioning systems. They are often placed in the living room,
      bedroom, kitchen—in almost all over the house. Most buildings and offices also
      have hidden condensing units. Cooled places become refuge to those who are tired
      with the rising temperature outside.


      There are various air-conditioning systems in the market, but they all
      function just the same. They control temperature, ventilation, and humidity in
      an enclosed environment. Hilsch air-conditioning uses a vortex tube called
      Ranque-Hilsch vortex tube for cheap spot cooling when you there is compressed
      air. However, it is not as efficient as usual air-conditioning equipment.



      It is advisable that homes, buildings, and other offices have sealed windows
      to maintain the quality of air produced by the system. Furthermore, it is better
      to check the dwelling first to make sure that air conditioners can really be
      installed since they often use large ducts. But you really don’t have to worry
      too much if it isn’t. You can still take advantage of remote coils or use the
      split system. Yet it is always preferable to maintain the cleanliness of the
      ducts to prevent the growth of pathogens that can definitely cause illness.
      Sometimes chemical monitoring of HVAC systems is needed to always ensure indoor
      air quality.


      Heating
      Most modern structures in colder regions in the
      world and in countries with temperate climate such as the United Kingdom usually
      install a heating system. This mechanism is used to regulate temperature in
      residential homes, public offices, and other dwellings.



       





      BigHvac.com - How to Service Thermal Expansion Valves

      How to Service Thermal Expansion Valves







      Proper Sizing, Installation, and Adjustment
      Help Keep Down Callbacks

       


      Metering the refrigerant flow to the evaporator
      is the sole function of a thermal expansion valve (TEV). What’s
      critical is that it must meter that flow at the same rate
      it is being vaporized by the heat load.



      To do this, it keeps the coil supplied with
      the proper amount of refrigerant to maintain the right superheat
      of the suction gas leaving the evaporator.


      TEV operation




      • At point A, hot, high-pressure liquid refrigerant enters the TEV.

      • At B, cold, low-pressure liquid plus flash gas enter the
        evaporator.


      • At C, the entire liquid refrigerant has been boiled off
        or vaporized by the heat load (latent heat).

      • Between C and D, the vapor temperature increases dramatically
        as further heat load is applied (sensible heat). At this
        point, the gas is superheated above its saturation temperature.

      • At D, the suction line temperature of the superheated
        gas is monitored by the sensing bulb, which signals the
        TEV to open or close accordingly.


      Because good superheat control is the criterion of TEV performance,
      accurate measurement is vital.


      How to measure superheat accurately


      Measuring superheat involves four steps.


      Step A: Determine the suction pressure at the evaporator
      outlet with an accurate gauge. If there is no gauge connection,
      a tee installed in the valve’s external equalizer line can
      be used.


      Step B: Refer to a temperature-pressure chart for
      the refrigerant used in the system, and determine the saturation
      temperature at the observed suction pressure.


      Step C: Measure the temperature of the suction line
      at the remote sensing bulb location. This can be accomplished
      by a strap-on thermometer or an electric device similar to
      an “Annie” or “Simpson” meter.



      Be certain the spot chosen for measurement is clean to help
      ensure accurate readings.


      Step D: Subtract the saturation temperature determined
      in Step B from the suction gas temperature measured in Step
      C. The difference is the operating superheat.


      Which valve to use

      Some service technicians seem rather uncertain as to when
      to use an internally equalized thermostatic expansion valve
      and when to use an externally equalized one.



      Our experience has shown that an externally equalized valve
      should be used whenever pressure drop through the evaporator
      reaches:





      • 3 psi in a 3-ton (or 3-hp) air conditioning system (evaporator
        temperature range of 30° to 50°F);

      • 2 psi in a 2-ton commercial refrigeration system (evaporator
        temperature of 10° to 30°); or


      • 1 psi in a 1-ton low-temperature system (evaporator temperature
        of 0° or below).


      On this basis, an externally equalized valve would automatically
      be the selection for any system in excess of 3 tons, regardless
      of the application.


      Where to place the bulb

      Good temperature feedback to the TEV is vital for control.
      Place the bulb where it will provide the best possible feedback.



      Never put the bulb at 6
      o’clock because it may sense the temperature of the oil flowing
      through the pipe, rather than the temperature of the refrigerant.


      Finally, be sure the bulb location is on a free-draining
      suction line.


      Choosing the proper TEV for the specific system remains the
      first step in good service — and no callbacks.





      Sunday, July 12, 2009

      3,500 New Grundfos HVAC Control Products from DtiCorp.com


      Fort Lauderdale, FL – DtiCorp.com (http://www.DtiCorp.com) is introducing 3,500 brand new Grundfos HVAC Control Products. Grundfos Pumps Corporation (http://www.grundfos.com ), part of the Grundfos Group, is a global pumps and pumping systems leader serving the residential, commercial building and process industry markets, as well as being a major supplier to the water supply and water treatment industries. Grundfos is known for advanced products, technology, and brands including Alldos, Hilge, PACO Pumps, Peerless Pumps, and Yeomans Chicago Corp. Producing over 10 million pumps each year, Grundfos strives to improve reliability and energy savings, and to exceed customer needs wherever water moves. Grundfos is focused on innovative, sustainable solutions while maintaining the highest ethical standards. Founded in 1945 in Bjerringbro, Denmark, The Grundfos Group is a worldwide enterprise that employs more than 18,000 people in 81 countries with North American headquarters in Olathe, Kansas.


      HVAC Solutions from Grundfos

      * Residential:
      > Zone Controls - The Grundfos Zone Controls are non-networked devices intended to be used for circulator and boiler control in hydronic heating systems. Compatible with conventional and programmable thermostats.
      > Hot water recirculation - Grundfos HWR pumps offer a solution to the problem by attaching to the water heater through the hot water pipe. By constantly circulating hot water through the pipes from the heater to the furthest fixture, the water in the pipes is always hot, and no water is wasted during the wait. In an average new home, HWR systems typically cost less than $1,000, including parts and installation.
      > Grundfos submersible pumps - SmartFlo Submersibles (SQE), 4-inch Submersibles, 6-8-10-inch Submersibles, Jet Pumps, SQ Flex.
      > Grundfos submersible motors - Grundfos has been manufacturing quality submersible motors for more than 30 years,and the highly efficient Grundfos MS submersible motors are rated among the very best on the market.The MS motors are based on state-of-the-art technology that comprises highly reliable shaft seals and heavy-duty thrust bearings.High efficiency and a long operating life ensure low long-term Cost of Ownership.

      * Commercial Building Services:

      > Commercial Buidling Services - providing advanced pump technology, control systems and service in urban locations and environments such as: offices, schools and universities, sport facilities, hospitals, theme parks, airports, hotels, apartment blocks, shopping centers.
      > Grundfos Magna - range of powerful pumps for heating systems in buildings on any scale. All the pumps feature the superior AUTOADAPT technology, which has ensured them an A-rating on the European energy labeling scale.
      > Grundfos VersaFlo - Most VersaFlo UP(S) circulator pumps can replace other manufacturers' 3-piece dry runners without piping modifications and occupy less space.
      > Grundfos BMP(E) pumps - The pump range features low energy consumption, corrosion resistant material and low pulsation. Furthermore the pumps require minimal service and at the same time the BMP is the most compact pump on the market, giving systems builders a free hand to design more compact systems.
      > Commercial OEM solutions - Partnering with Grundfos means we can help you stay on top of the market’s demands for cutting edge technology. For example, with the trend toward sharply rising energy prices, we predict energy efficiency considerations can only become more important to manufacturers of industrial equipment.

      * Industrial
      > Industrial Solutions - Adding performance to the industry is beyond reliability. It is providing industries with stronger, more flexible and more intelligent pump and pump systems. Pumps for all areas such as dairy, brewery, beverage, ethanol, yeast, juice, pharmaceutical, water treatment, marine and other industries - solutions that will add performance to your industry.

      About Us: DtiCorp.Com (http://www.DtiCorp.com) carries more than 35,000 HVAC products, including industrial, commercial and residential parts and equipment from Honeywell, Johnson Contols, Robertshaw, Jandy, Grundfos, Armstrong and more. Our online catalog is easy to navigate and search, and all products have a picture and a description. If a customer has any questions about a product, they can call 800-757-5999 and speak with one of our product experts. Our mission is to offer the best prices anywhere to our customers.



      Julian Arhire
      Manager DtiCorp.com
      Phone: 954.298.2515
      Fax: 954.206.0767
      Web: http://www.DtiCorp.com

      ###


      Saturday, July 4, 2009

      AmEx Cardmembers Enjoy Convenient Payment at DtiCorp.com


      Speed and convenience of payment with the American Express Card for 35,000 HVAC products

      Fort Lauderdale, FL - All customers will be able to enjoy the speed and convenience of payment with the American Express Card, and will also have the opportunity to earn a variety of types of rewards with every purchase from DtiCorp.com (http://www.DtiCorp.com).

      Consumer spending on American Express credit cards is typically much higher than on other types of credit cards, while the costs associated with accepting AmEx credit cards through an American Express merchant account are low.

      Since American Express cardholders have greater incomes, they tend to spend more. American Express cardholders are a high-earning group, with 45 percent of U.S. households that earn more than $50,000 annually carrying an AmEx card. Additionally, cardholders charge an average of 27 percent more with their American Express Card than their average spending on other credit cards.

      With incentive programs like the Membership Rewards Program, cardholders are more likely to use their American Express credit card. More than half of cardholders enrolled in the Membership Rewards Program go out of their way to use the American Express Card.

      American Express cardholders are a loyal group. According to Brookfield Research data from November 2008, 24 percent of American Express cardholders exclusively used AmEx in the past month and no other credit cards or charge cards.

      But it's not only consumers who are ringing up charges on the American Express Card. Businesses have also gotten into the act, with 1.7 million companies using the American Express Corporate Card for their business expenses. That number includes nearly 70 percent of the Fortune 500 -- the list of the biggest corporations in the U.S.

      "The timing is perfect," said John Marino, vice president of marketing for DtiCorp.com. "Our ability to accept American Express Cards will bring added convenience to our customers and incremental sales to our company."


      "We developed our concept by listening to what Americans wanted. Our customers asked us to accept the American Express Card in our store and we listened. The acceptance of the American Express Card at our store means convenience for our customers and is another great way to have a chance to earn valuable rewards every single day, even while shopping for HVAC products. We believe that acceptance of the American Express Card will be welcome news to our customers."



      About American Express: American Express Company (NYSE: AXP) is a leading global payments, network and travel company founded in 1850. Merchant Services is the merchant network of American Express, which acquires and maintains relationships with millions of merchants around the globe, which welcome American Express-branded Cards.

      About Us: DtiCorp.Com (http://www.DtiCorp.com) carries more than 35,000 HVAC products, including industrial, commercial and residential parts and equipment from Honeywell, Johnson Contols, Robertshaw, Jandy, Grundfos, Armstrong and more. Our online catalog is easy to navigate and search, and all products have a picture and a description. If a customer has any questions about a product, they can call 800-757-5999 and speak with one of our product experts. Our mission is to offer the best prices anywhere to our customers.