System Components
Typically, your heating system is comprised of the heating source section and a blower section to move air across the heating source. In furnaces or boilers there are several heating sections including burners, heat exchangers, valves, igniters and various other parts. In an electrical heating system there is a heating coil that glows and gets hot from the electricity that passes through it. A heat pump uses the outdoor air conditioning unit by reversing the cooling process and removing the heat that is outdoors and bringing it inside. There is a component in the heat pump outdoor unit called a reversing valve that makes the process happen.
Critical Factors for Proper Heating
Choosing the right heating source is the most critical factor, including correct sizing. Just as in cooling, doing a load calculation to determine heat loss room by room is a must. Where you live or work, plus what fuel source is available also plays a big factor in determining what you will choose.
Proper installation is very critical. Depending on what system you heat with improper installation could be deadly. Gas furnaces not installed properly could cause improper venting of Carbon Monoxide into the structure which could result in injury or possibly death. Installing a Carbon Monoxide detector in your home or business is the best investment you can make.
Routine maintenance is a must for your heating system. Before your heating season starts have a licensed contractor start you’re heating units to make sure they are operating properly and that all safety features are functioning. If you have a humidifier make sure they clean and check that for proper operation.
TYPES OF FURNACES
There are several different type furnaces and their use is typically based on application and space availability. Furnaces have a heat-producing system and air distribution system. The heating system includes burners, heat exchangers, manifold, controls, and a venting system. The air distribution side includes a motor, blower wheel and duct connection. Below are brief descriptions of different type furnaces.
Upflow
This furnace stands vertically and needs headroom. This furnace is usually located in a basement or attic installation. Air is discharged from the top and pulled in through the sides, rear or bottom.
” Low-boy ”
This unit has a low profile and is used in horizontal applications typically in a crawl space or basement. Air discharge and intake are on the top of the unit.
Downflow
This furnace is sometimes called a counter-flow furnace. This furnace looks just like the upflow except the air is discharged down, opposite of the upflow.
It is critical that the space that the furnace occupies is sufficient in size for proper venting and make-up air. If there is any question make your contractors prove that it is up to code. If air conditioning will be added the evaporator coil is attached to the furnace to provide cooling.
Electric Air Handler
This uses electrical resistance heating coils to produce heat for the space. Air handlers can be installed both vertically or horizontal based on application. The air handler has the heating coil section with controls, fan section for air distribution and a cooling coil for air conditioning.
VARIABLE SPEED
This term identifies the speed and working of a motor in your furnace or air handler, and in some cases the compressor. Most brands offer “variable speed” or “fixed speed” motors in their products. There are many benefits from choosing a variable speed motor from energy savings, comfort levels and most importantly noise level. A variable speed motor is extremely quiet and with its technology very rarely will it reach full speed. Fixed speed motors are set in speed and will work only in high in cooling and low or medium in heat. With variable speed the motor starts off low and will ramp up if more is needed. Another huge benefit is that with your furnace or air handler the motor continually runs at low speed which allows a constant filtering of your air eliminating unwanted particles in the air flow.
SYSTEM EFFICIENCY
How much it costs to operate a system is very important, especially in today’s tough economic climate. All systems will have an efficiency rating, based on how the system is designed and units matched, an S.E.E.R rating will be accomplished for cooling, and A.F.U.E ratings for furnaces.
S.E.E.R stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and it is the standard for measuring the air conditioner units cooling efficiency. Similar to miles per gallon for an automobile, the higher the S.E.E.R number, the more efficient the air conditioner.
A.F.U.E stands for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency rating and reflects the efficiency of a gas furnace converting fuel to energy. The higher the number the more efficient the furnace.
A heating and cooling system is made up of individual parts. And even, though each component is separate, they’re designed and engineered to work together as a system. It is very important that the system you purchase has matched components to ensure the proper efficiency and performance.
FILTERS
The most important step in making sure your indoor air quality is good is that you filter all the air that is flowing through your duct system. This not only includes having a good filter, but just as critical, making sure that your ducts and units are sealed properly. Most new units come standard with 1″ filter, this type of filter is the least effective in removing particles from the air flow. All filters or filter systems are rated by the amount and size of the particle they stop and catch, the higher the number, the better. Listed below are some filter facts.
1 or 2″ Fiberglass filter
These are the most inexpensive filters and the poorest performers. They catch only 10-15% of the largest particles in the air. Throw these away and do not let a contractor put these in your system.
1 or 2″ Pleated Paper filter
These filters catch between 40-45% of the particles in the air. If you are going to the store to purchase your filters pay a few more pennies and buy these, it will increase your filtering by as much as 35%. This filter needs to be checked once a month and may go four months without changing.
Media Filters
These filters come in various widths depending on application and are effective from 75-85% of particle removal. Having this filter in your system will probably involve duct modification and space may be an issue. For the money this product is your best choice for a good filter system. This type filter will require that you check it every six months, and may need to be changed only on a yearly basis
Electronic Filters
An electronic filter is one of the most effective filtering systems in the industry. It can remove up to 98% of air flow particles and helps trap fungi, pollen, bacteria and dander. The filter is charged electrically and attracts particles to it.
This filter should be checked every six months and cleaned with soap and water. If air quality is a critical issue for someone in the home or office this should be considered when choosing a filter type. Another choice would be a HEPA System where there are multiple filters in one unit. This type of system is used for clean room or extreme asthma or allergy patients.
ZONING
Zoning is a system that uses thermostats placed in different areas of the home or office to regulate heating and cooling for that particular area. As you probably are aware, it’s next to impossible to keep every room or office at a comfortable temperature when there is only one thermostat. Zoning allows for different comfort levels in multiple areas. Dampers are placed within the ductwork to zone off areas that are controlled by its own thermostat. Zoning is extremely helpful in two story homes, multiple office situations and large areas. It is critical that the system is sized properly before zoning is installed. Zoning will not solve the problem of oversized or undersized systems, and in some cases if a zone system is installed on an improperly sized system it will make the comfort level worse.
UV LIGHT
This new technology has enjoyed a lot of popularity the last few years in the Indoor Air Quality arena. The C band of the ultra-violet spectrum (UVC), produced by these lights, can kill mold spores and other airborne bacteria. The UV Light is typically placed at the furnace or air handling unit, either in the return and or supply duct. This light zaps away a high percentage of airborne particles that flow through the air stream and help eradicate mold off your cooling coil. UV technology has been used for years in food processing, water treatment, health industry and even clean room applications.
HUMIDIFIERS
Do you have dry, scratchy skin in the winter? Do you awake with a dry scratchy throat or nose? Is your wood home furnishings cracking and splitting in the winter? During the winter months the average homes relative humidity can average 15%. Add to it a dry heat, such as gas heat, and you need to add moisture to the air inside your home. This is easily accomplished by adding a humidifier to your system. There are several options available including a Bypass flow-through, Powered flow-through, Steam Humidifier and Drum Humidifier. They all produce moisture, but application and space will sometimes dictate which unit is required. For maximum humidity a steam humidifier will perform the best, and if your water costs are high a drum humidifier will be your best bet. The most popular is the bypass flow-through. There are several options available for measuring your humidity level including thermostats that sense humidity levels, or a separate humidistat that usually mounts next to your thermostat.
HEAT PUMPS
Most consumers think of heat pumps as something connected with water and a pump, and in some instances that is a correct assumption. The term heat pump simply is a type of system used to heat and cool a structure.
There are three basic types of heat pumps:
Air-to-Air: This process involves your outdoor unit absorbing heat from the outdoor air and then transferring it indoors to your indoor unit. In the summer this process is reversed and the heat pump removes the hot air from your home to the outdoors.
Water-to-Air: This process involves removing the heat from surface or ground water and transferring it indoors similar to the air-to-air process.
Ground-to-air: Similar as to the two above, this process uses loops of piping underground to absorb the earth’s heat and transfer it indoors.
Heat pumps do well in moderate heating climates such as the southeast, but they can be used in colder climates if a good back-up or supplemental heat source is in place for colder or freezing temperatures. A high efficiency heat pump is a very cost effective form of heating, and usually controls humidity levels better both in winter and summer.
DUAL FUEL
This is a system that uses both a heat pump outdoor unit and typically a gas furnace indoors. The term dual fuel means that there are two main sources available to provide heat into the space. If installed properly the dual fuel system can automatically chose what form of fuel is required to give you maximum comfort. One big advantage of a dual fuel system is that as a consumer you can use either gas or electricity to heat your home or building depending on what utility costs are.
THERMOSTATS
The most comfortable investment you can make is in a thermostat. Having a thermostat with accurate temperature control will bring you energy savings and consistent comfort. There are so many different thermostats that it would take several pages to discuss, but there are a few items that you must consider when you make a purchase. Is the thermostat a digital readout, does it have setback capability, are the numbers large enough to read and is it backlit so you can see it at night or in the early morning hours. The best investment you can make is with a programmable thermostat. While you might sometimes forget to set your thermostat at your desired settings, a programmable thermostat with battery backup will more than pay for itself within the first year by maintaining settings for your comfort level throughout the day. Many misconceptions about energy savings and thermostats exist, but the truth is that the longer your home or office stay at the lowest setting for heating and the highest setting for cooling, you will save money on your utilities. Simply setting your occupied heating to 68 degrees in the winter, and having your sleeping or unoccupied temperature lower will give you considerable savings. The best strategy is to set the programmable thermostat at the best possible settings and enjoy your comfort.
AIR DISTRIBUTION
This term means how the air is distributed throughout your home or office, including your ductwork system and the grilles the air exits from. Designing an air distribution system is very technical, but for simplicity we will discuss basic terms and what your contractor will probably talk about. An air distribution or ductwork system is a network of square, rectangular and round ductwork. Systems are usually built and installed with sheet metal, fiberglass duct board or flexible tubing duct. One product is not better than the other, but what dictates which is used is usually local codes, application, size of ducts and duct location. The most important factor for each product is that it is sized and installed correctly, and that it is sealed properly so that no air leaks out or is sucked in from undesirable areas.
All duct systems must be sized for the air flow of the unit or units installed. That means that if you upgrade your system, and it is a different size than what was in there, some type of modification needs to take place. Most airflow problems start right at your furnace or air handler where all the ducts are connected. This connection is called the supply plenum and it is critical that the plenum allows the air to move with the least amount of restriction to the rest of your ductwork network. If you are experiencing air flow issues in your home or business the starting point to see what the problem is would be your supply plenum. The air that leaves the furnace or air handler and enters into the rooms is called supply air. There is a motor (blower motor) that is attached to a blower wheel (looks like a Ferris wheel) that pushes the air into the ductwork and then into the rooms.
Another common problem with air flow is that there is not enough air entering into your furnace or air handler. This air is called return air and it is pulled into your furnace or air handler through return air ductwork. A return plenum, just like the supply plenum, is attached to your unit and all of your return ducts attach to them. The problem lies in that some older units do not have enough return air coming into them, which results in low supply air. This problem can be evaluated by your contractor adding up all of your return duct sizes to determine if they are large enough for your system.
Most performance problems with heating and cooling systems can be traced backed to air flow roblems. Hot and cold spots from lack of air flow, leaky ducts that cause air to be lost and dirty air to be sucked in, uninsulated ducts that are energy robbers and sometimes cause condensation to form and leak on ceilings. Make sure that your contractor does a complete evaluation of your duct system to ensure that these problems do not exist. Duct sealing, insulating and correct sizing can have a huge impact in the quality of air in your home.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE AGREEMENTS
Many contractors offer programs where they will come out once, twice and sometimes three times per year and check your system. Make sure that the program includes cleaning of your indoor coil and drain pan, and that they check your ductwork for proper sealing. Changing your filter at each maintenance is a good practice to follow. A good maintenance will go a long way in helping with your indoor air quality and help extend the life of your equipment.
SYSTEM SAFETY
Water leak
The number one service call for the air conditioning contractor is a water leak call. It is also the number one call back call. For that reason being proactive in preparing for the unwanted and unexpected water leak is a smart move. Make sure that any furnaces or air handlers that have cooling coils and are installed over ceilings be placed in an emergency or auxiliary drain pan that is piped to the outdoors, preferably to a location that can be seen to make you aware there is a problem. A float switch can also be placed into the drain pan to detect water and shut down the unit. Sometimes, in critical or sensitive locations an alarm can be placed in the pan to alert of a water leak.
Smoke
Of course, where there is smoke there is fire, and getting a jump on saving life and property can come in the form of a smoke detector. There are duct mounted smoke detectors that when they detect smoke shut the unit down and in some cases notify the fire department. Other systems will also initiate an exhaust fan to empty the space of the smoke. At the very least placing an external smoke detector by your furnace or air handler is a smart move.
Carbon Monoxide
Carbon Monoxide is a poisonous, colorless, odorless, tasteless gas that is generated by incomplete combustion from a gas appliance such as a furnace. Step one is making sure that your furnace is installed and operating properly. Placing a CO Detector by the furnace will monitor levels and sound an alarm when the levels reach an unsatisfactory level.
INSTALLATION
Almost every air conditioning and heating system will deliver the same cooling and heating, then why so many brands? Sounds silly but there is only a handful of companies that make all the parts that go into the units, no matter what brand. So why do some perform better than others? Pure and simple, the installation of the equipment makes all the difference. Sure there are units that are built sturdy than others, there are units with more bells and whistles, but 55 degrees is 55 degrees no matter what unit. The second most important thing for the comfort of your home or business, next to proper evaluation and sizing, is the installation. Here are a few facts about the installation of equipment.
Lakeland Electric & Water
Researchers found that repairing leaky duct work resulted in reducing energy use by at least 17.4%.
As you can see no matter how well the equipment, or how high the SEER, if it is not installed properly then you could be wasting money on energy and investment. It is important that when you are making a decision that you review with the contractor there install process, there quality control and there follow-up procedures to see if the unit is performing to its capacity.
WARRANTY
This is simple, EXTENDED MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY! When purchasing a system make sure that the warranty is from the manufacturer. Ask for a copy of the warranty form, contact name and phone number of the warranty administrator and when the paperwork will be turned in to the manufacturer. Be sure to follow-up on this on your own with the contractor and manufacturer. You should receive from the contractor within six to eight weeks a warranty confirmation form from the manufacturer. Sometimes a contractor will offer there own 10 year parts and labor warranty with no guarantee from the manufacturer, be wary. Warranties vary from brand to brand, but simply asking the contractor to see the warranty info before your investment is wise. Extended warranties vary in price from brand to brand, but you should be within the $300-500 range to purchase one.
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